Amongst its ruins, Aizanoi has five ancient and still used bridges, two Turkish-style baths, column-lined promenades, a stadium, a gymnasium, a theatre and its great Temple of Zeus.
Aizanoi was an Ancient Greek city in western Anatolia. Located astride the River Penkalas, some 1000m above sea level, the city was an important political and economic centre in Roman times.
Settlement in the area is known from the Bronze Age. It changed hands between the Kingdoms of Pergamum and Bithynia, finally being bequeathed to Rome in 133 BC. Aizanoi’s monumental buildings date from the early Empire to the 3rd century.
Aizanoi became a Christian bishopric, with its bishop, Pisticus, being a participant at the First Countil of Nicaea in 325. The former city is no longer a bishopric, and is today listed by the Catholic Church as a titular see.
After the 7th century, Aizanoi fell into decline. Later, during Seljuk times, the temple hill was repurposed as a citadel.
The ruins of the city were discovered in 1824 by European travellers. Survey work in the 1830s and 40s was followed by thorough and systematic excavation conducted by the German Archaeological Institute from 1926.
This excavation was resumed in 1970, and is still ongoing, with archaeologists in January 2021 announcing that they have discovered a cache of 2,100-year-old Roman coins in a jug buried near a stream.
In 2012, the site was submitted for inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Today, visitors can see the Temple of Zeus, which is situated prominently on a hill and was the city’s main sanctuary. Construction of the temple began under Emperor Domitian.
A theatre and stadium are built adjacent to each other, with their being combined into one complex being a feature that is unique in the ancient world.
There are also two baths – or ‘thermae’ – one which includes a palaestra and marble furnishings, and the other which contains a mosaic depicting a satyr and a maenad.
The remains of Aizanoi’s market, which features a circular macellum, is famed for being the first recorded place in the world where inflation was calculated. Recent excavations have also revealed the existence of a stoa, or covered walkway, and a large necropolis includes examples of door-shaped Phrygian tombstones.
In 2012 the site was submitted for inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Though Aizanoi is well off the tourist beaten track, locals are friendly and happy to guide interested travellers round all of the historic sites of the historic site.
From the nearby city of Kutahya, Aizanoi is reachable in around 45 minutes by car along the Kütahya Uşak Yolu/D240.
Driving from Istanbul to Kutahya takes around 4 hours and 15 minutes, primarily along the Bursa Eskişehir Yolu/D200/E90.
]]>Whilst the complex in Angkor is believed to have been founded circa 980 AD by Yasovarman I, king of the Khmer Dynasty, Angkor Wat itself is thought to date back to the 12th century. It was the Khmer king Suryavarman II who built Angkor Wat between 1113 and 1150. He dedicated it to the Hindu deity Vishnu and there are images of Suryavarman as Vishnu throughout Angkor Wat in the form of sculptures. Angkor Wat is also thought to be an earthly representation of Mount Meru, the divine abode of the Hindu gods. It is also thought that Angkor Wat was the site of Suryavarman’s tomb.
Angkor Wat was sacked in the late 12th century, and after that began to be converted from a Hindu site to a Buddhist one. It was largely neglected after the 16th century but never fully abandoned. The French explorer Henri Mouhot ‘rediscovered’ the site in 1860 and popularised it in the Western imagination through his writings.
France claimed Cambodia as a protectorate shortly afterwards and invaded Siem Reap, partly in an attempt to gain control of the ruins. Throughout the 20th century a major restoration project was undertaken at Angkor Wat, and displays and replicas of Angkor Wat were displayed back in France, to much acclaim and awe.
Despite the turbulent politics of late 20th century Cambodia, very little damage was done to Angkor Wat. It was art thieves from Thailand who caused severe damage, lopping heads off whatever structures they possibly could. Angkor Wat has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1992.
Angkor Wat is unsurprisingly one of Cambodia’s most popular tourist sites. There is an incredible amount to see and it’s a good (although relatively expensive) idea to get a licensed tour guide.
You’ll need time to explore the whole complex – allow for half a day minimum if you want to explore the site fully. Sunrise or sunset are good times to go, avoiding the heat of the day and the worst of the visitors, otherwise lunchtime – whilst hot – is often slightly quieter. Angkor Wat is a sacred site, so dress respectfully and cover up – shoulders should be covered and knee-length shorts and skirts are best, if not full length. Do not climb on the structures or go into places which are clearly marked as forbidden.
Angkor Wat is just outside the city of Krong Siem Reap. Getting here is straight forward – head north out of town on Charles de Gaulle Road and you’ll hit the temple complex. Hop on a tuktuk or taxi to get there – the journey shouldn’t take more than 15 or 20 minutes.
]]>Whilst the site of Apollonia was once inhabited by Illyrian tribes, it was in approximately 588 BC that Greek colonists from Corfu and Corinth led by Gylax founded the city on the right bank of the Aous (Vjosë) River.
The Romans ruled Apollonia from around 229BC and added to its splendour. The city flourished in the 4th century BC as an important economic and trade centre. It was also renowned for its school of philosophy, acquiring fame as a cultural centre and attracting many brilliant students from different parts of the empire, including Augustus, the first Roman emperor.
Though its riverside location was vital in making Apollonia the trade and economic hub it eventually became, it also played a role in its downfall. An earthquake in 234AD altered the riverbed of the Aous, silting up Apollonia’s harbour and reducing the city’s importance significantly, which thus contributed to its decline.
Today, Apollonia’s 137 hectares is encircled by a 4 km long wall, housing a series of ruins including a triumphal arch, a library, a 2nd century Odeon, several temples – including the striking ruins of the temple of Agonothetes – and a city council building with a surviving facade.
There is a Museum of Archaeology in the old Monastery of Saint Mary which houses artefacts from the site and both the museum. The site contains both French and English translations.
From the city of Fier, the site is a half an hour drive via the E853 and SH4 roads. From the centre of Pojan, it’s a 3 minute drive or 20 minute walk via the SH66 road.
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The remains of the four temples of Area Sacra di Largo Argentina, now called Temples A, B, C, and D, include various columns, platforms and walls.
The oldest of the Area Sacra di Largo Argentina temples is temple C, which was built in the early half of the third century BC. It can be recognised as the rectangular structure perched on a platform with an altar in front of it. It is also next to the largest of the temples, Temple D, which sits at one end and has a prominent set of columns. It is thought to date back to the second century BC.
Temple B of Area Sacra di Largo Argentina, built in the second century BC, is the round temple, while temple A, next to it on the end has been dated back to the third century BC.
Also located at the Area Sacra, on the side of the Via di Torre Argentina, is a collection of stones which have now been attributed as having formed part of the Curia of Pompey. This once rectangular building formed part of the complex which included the Theatre of Pompey and it was in the Curia of Pompey – a senate meeting place – that Julius Caesar was assassinated on 15 March 44BC.
The current occupants of the Area Sacra di Largo Argentina are not Romans, but cats – stray cats to be precise. Today, the Area Sacra di Largo Argentina is home to a charming cat shelter (on the corner of Via di Torre Argentina).
From the centre of Rome, Area Sacra di Largo Argentina is reachable in around 10 minutes by car and 25 minutes by foot via Via Nazionale. Public transport stops at ‘Argentina’, from where the area is a 1 minute walk.
]]>Today, despite millennia of damage, you can still tell apart the different rooms that made up the Asklepieion.
It seems that there has been a healing sanctuary at the site of Asklepieion since prehistory, but the main ruins today are those of later sanctuaries. The most significant was dedicated to Asklepios, a Greek deity of health, to whose temples people would flock for medical treatments.
The temple combined spiritual healing with physical healing: a popular treatment included ‘temple sleep’, hoping to be visited by Asklepios himself in their dreams. Priests would interpret dreams, often advising bathing or the gymnasium. Over time, Asklepieion became increasingly popular and visitors would travel from far and wide to experience its healing properties. Thus, the sanctuary was expanded.
Today, the pretty and relatively well-preserved ruins of Asklepieion are set over 3 levels and include several temples, some Roman baths, gateways and a banqueting hall. Although damaged from several earthquakes, the first terrace is still enclosed by a portico with an open south side. The second terrace is the oldest part of the temple – the ruins of an altar from the 4th century BC, the sleep room and 2 smaller temples.
The third terrace is the Doric Temple of Asklepieion, dating from the 2nd century BC. During the Christian period an early church was dedicated here to Panagua Tarsou. Try looking for the initials ‘ICXP’ which mean Jesus Christ.
It is worth noting that this is not the most easily accessible site for people with mobility issues. The terrain is quite steep and there are many stairs to climb. However, for those who can reach the top, you are rewarded with panoramic views over the town of Kos, a view shared with patients from ancient times.
If you cannot walk up the hill, a car park at the site allows for easier access. For those driving from Kos, take Asklipioy road and drive for 8 minutes. The car park is to the left at a fork-shaped turning.
]]>These holy women were known as the Vestal Virgins and their role was seen as integral to the continuity and security of Rome. Little remains of Atrium Vestae except for a series of statues displayed in a well-tended courtyard together with the walls of some of its rooms.
The complex of the Atrium Vestae was built at the foot of Rome’s Palatine Hill, in the heart of the Roman Forum where a sacred grove was located. While the grove was encroached upon as the city expanded and was eventually destroyed in the fire of 64 AD, the atrium was rebuilt.
Most importantly, the Atrium was situated beside the Temple of Vesta dating back to the 8th century BC and whose flame was continuously kept alight by the Vestal Virgins. The complex was large for only 6 virgins, but included reception rooms, storerooms, baths and apartments for each Vestal and her slaves.
Until Augustus moved his residence to the palace on the Palatine, the domus publica where the Pontifex Maximus dwelled was attached to the Atrium Vestae was his home. Fires in the 3rd and 1st centuries BC and again in 64 AD meant the house and temple of the Vestals had to be repaired, particularly by emperors Nero and Trajan.
After the College of the Vestals was dissolved and Christianity was introduced by Emperor Theodosius I in the late 4th century AD, the Atrium Vestae was used to house officials of the imperial court and later, papal court. The site was eventually abandoned between the 11th and 12th centuries.
Archaeological finds from the site when it was excavated in 1877 included a hoard of 397 golden coins from the 5th century as well as 830 Anglo-Saxon coins from the 9th and 10th centuries, suggesting at the importance and wealth of the inhabitants of the Atrium both during and long after it was the home of the Vestal Virgins.
Despite there being little remains of the once-grand palace of the Vestal Virgins, today visitors can tour the site on which the great Atrium Vestae was built and see the original floor plan of the home. Follow the old corridors of the Atrium to view remaining statues of the Vestals, including that of Numa Pompilius, mythological founder of the cult.
Afterwards, you can explore the rest of the ancient Roman Forum.
The Atrium Vestae is accessible on foot through the Roman Forum. To reach the Forum via public transport (recommended in Rome’s busy centre) head for the Colosseo metro stop on lines MEB and MEB1 as well as bus lines on the burgundy route (51, 75, 85, 87, 117 and nMB). From here it is a 10 minute walk.
]]>The site was inscribed in 1984 as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Nothing is known of Baalbek prior to the Greek conquest of Syria. Initially a Phoenician settlement dedicated to the worship of the deity of the sun Baal, Baalbek was known as Heliopolis (City of the Sun) by the Greeks in the 4th century BC.
After Alexander the Great‘s conquest of Persia in the 330s BC, Baalbek formed part of the Diadochi kingdoms of Egypt and Syria. It then fell to the Ptolemaic dynasty of Egypt, under which the town was called Heliopolis.
It was during Roman times that Baalbek reached especially grew, being annexed and thus becoming a Roman colony in 47BC under Julius Caesar. Over the next two centuries, the Romans would imbue Baalbek with the empire’s largest holy temples. By 150AD, it would be home to the vast temples of Jupiter, Venus and Bacchus.
The city passed into Byzantine hands and was then occupied by the Muslim army in 634 AD, coming under Arab domination in 637 AD.
The ruins of Baalbek first came to European attention in the 16th century. Though much of the area had been destroyed by earthquakes, between 1898-1903 a German expedition excavated the two Roman temples and began to reconstruct the ruins.
From the 20th century, the city was administered by various Muslim rulers of Syria. After World War I the French mandatory authorities included Baalbek in Lebanon. Reconstruction stagnated until the end of Lebanon’s civil war, with preservation and resultant tourism growing from the 1990s onwards.
Today, visitors to Baalbek can see the impressive ruins of the incredible structures that remain. This includes standing in the shadow of six of the original 54 columns of the Temple of Jupiter – the largest temple ever built by the Empire. Baalbek is also the place to see the extremely well-preserved Temple of Bacchus, the stairs of the Temple of Mercury, and a ceremonial entryway known as the propylaea.
There are also ruins from Baalbek’s time beyond Roman occupation. For example, the ruins of the Roman Temple of Venus show how it was incorporated into a Byzantine church. This and other sites tell of the time of the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius, who destroyed many of the Roman holy sites in favour of churches and basilicas.
Visitors can also see the remnants of a large 8th century mosque from the Arab conquest. Baalbek is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
From the centre of Lebanon, Baalbek is a 50 minute drive via Zahlé – Baalbek Hwy. This is by far the best way to reach the site.
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The current form of Sant Angelo in Formis dates back to 1053 and visitors can step inside to view its colourfully frescoed interior.
The first basilica can be traced back to the Lombardic period as the cult of the Archangel Michael spread to the Lombards in the late 6th century. Built on top of the Temple of Diana Tifatina, the most important pre-Christian sanctuary in the region, by the end of the 10th century the basilica had fallen into disuse.
The Lombards donated the church to the Abbot Desiderio di Montecassino, who had the church rebuilt between 1072 and 1087 in the Romanesque style. The abbot commissioned stunning frescoes of the Byzantine-Campana school to decorate the interior. During the 12th century, further frescoes were added as well as the reconstruction of the bell tower which had collapsed earlier.
The remains of the Roman temple to Diana Tifatina were found in 1877 and excavators noticed how the basilica traced the structure and shape of the temple, adding structures to the ends of the original aisles.
Open every day between 9.30am and 7pm, the Basilica of Sant Angelo provides a welcome escape from the hot Italian sun and a unique step back through the centuries to the Lombardic and Roman period. Entry only costs €1 and for that price you can walk through the Norman-inspired entrance portico into this ancient site.
Crane your neck to see the apse decorated with an outstandingly well-preserved fresco that depicts an enthroned Christ and the symbols of the 4 Evangelists. Within the walls of the church you can also make out the columns of the Roman temple.
The best way to find Basilica of Sant Angelo is by driving to Formis from Caserta via the SS 700 road between Capua and Maddaloni. Otherwise, get the REG train from caserta to Santa Maria Capua Vetere before getting the 7 to Piedimonte Matese and walking 15 minutes to the Basilica of Sant Angelo. On foot, the church is not hard to find, located at the top of the village. There is car parking in front of the building.
]]>At one time, the Messenian people fled to Bassae, seeking sanctuary there during the war with the Spartans.
The Temple of Apollo Epicurius was built at the height of Greek civilisation during the second half of the 5th century BC (420-400 BC). It was dedicated to Apollo Epicurius by the Phigaleians, who believed the god of sun and healing had protected them from plague and invasion.
The temple was first noticed in 1785 by the French architect J. Bocher, who stumbled upon it accidentally whilst building villas in Zante. Upon returning to look at the temple a second time, he was murdered by bandits, and it was not until 1812 that a group of British antiquaries rediscovered the site, and removed some slabs from a frieze and transported them to Zante.
In 1902, a systematic excavation of the area was carried out by the Greek Archaeological Society of Athens, with further excavations taking place in 1959, 1970, an from 1975-79.
Though the Temple of Apollo Epicurius is geographically remote from the major polities of ancient Greece, it is one of the most studied temples because of its large number of unusual features.
The temple is unusual in that it has examples of all three of the classical orders used in ancient Greek architecture: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. Inside, there was once a continuous Ionic frieze showing Athenians alongside Amazons and the Lapiths engaged in battle with Centaurs. Parts of these friezes were removed by the British and are now on display in the British Museum.
Bassae was the first Greek site to be added to the World Heritage List, being inscribed in 1986.
Being so far from metropolitan areas, the temple is less susceptible to acid rain which would dissolve the limestone; however, the Temple is presently covered in a white tent to protect the ruins from the elements.
Repair works are being undertaken on the columns, with two pairs of columns (out of 15) having been completed in the past 40 years.
Today, visitors have limited access due to these repair works, but can enter the tent and see the front of the temple.
The journey to Bassae is significant, but scenic. From Athens, the temple takes just over 3 hours by car, along the Olimpia Odos, A8, E94, and A7 roads, with the final stretch being a long and winding tarmac road. The journey through the Arcadian mountains is beautiful, and there are places to stop along the way, such as Andritsaina, where you can drink a coffee in a small square in the shade of an over 500 year old Platanos tree.
]]>Built from 1003 to 1010 during the reign of Rajaraja I, the Brihadisvara Temple was constructed in honour of the Hindu deity Shiva (Siva), who had a vision of the temple in a dream.
The original temple would have been built around a moat, and was ornately decorated. It’s believed that when it was constructed, it was one of the tallest buildings in the world, standing at 216 feet. The temple is primarily built of granite, which has confused historians and archaeologists as there is no granite to be found in the immediate vicinity, suggesting it must have been imported from much further afield.
Underneath the temple lies a complex system of underground passages which would have been used to prevent intruders and allow for the royal family to move between buildings.
It is an incredibly ornate and grand mostly granite structure, with seemingly endless sculptures and carvings chronicling this deity’s life as well as that of other holy figures.
The temple looks at its most beautiful at sunrise and sunset: the softer light looks fantastic on the honey-coloured granite. The temple itself is part of a group of temples known as the ‘Great Living Chola Temples’ and remains one of the most popular sites in Tamil Nadu so it does get busy.
Look out for the amazing paintings inside the temple and some of the remarkable statues outside it, many of which are the largest of their kind in India.
The temple is located just outside the town of Thanjavur: it’s about a 20 minute walk from town, or else you’ll find plenty of willing tuktuk drivers to take you.
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