Little is known about Cahuachi, but as it overlooked the Nazca Lines, it is thought to have been a ceremonial site. The site is believed to have been built sometime in the 1st century AD, and was abandoned by 500AD, probably because of drought. Over time, it’s thought it turned from a ceremonial site into effectively a graveyard.
At its peak, the site would have stretched across 0.6 square miles – evidence suggests it was a non-urban centre, and never sustained a large population. There are over 40 mounds – naturally occurring structures – which were used as the base for the later adobe structures.
Another site at Cahuachi is known as Estaquería, which archaeologists believed was used for mummification purposes. Looting remains a major problem around the area as the burial areas are fertile grounds for thieves. The site is still undergoing excavation by the Italian archaeologist Guiseppe Orefici.
Excavations have unearthed various useful clues about Nazca society, including their diet, trade patterns and artistic production. The tombs have revealed more clues about Nazca society – bodies were buried facing south, and often wrapped in elaborate textiles and buried with pottery. A variety of ‘trophy heads’ were also found, believed to have been taken either in warfare or ritual sacrifice following victories.
The site is quite difficult to access and it’s a sometime active archaeological site, so there’s no signage or explanation. Going with a guide – either as part of a tour or hiring one privately – will drastically improve your experience and massively aid your understanding. Don’t come expecting Macchu Picchu, but the site remains impressive in its own right, particularly given its desert location.
Access is relatively difficult – the site lies 25km west of Nazca, down a dirt road. It’s recommended you join an organised tour to get here with the least hassle, although it is possible to drive yourself or hire a taxi should you wish.
]]>Since the 16th century, Peru had been under Spanish control: the Viceroy of Peru ruled, and was appointed by the Spanish government. Much of Latin America began increasingly unsatisfied with being under Spanish control, and in the late 18th/early 19th century, independence movements began to grow and gain popular support across South America.
The Peruvian Wars of Independence are generally accepted to have started in 1811, and finished in 1826 – independence was in fact declared in 1820 however there were plenty of royalists around Peru, particularly in Lima, and fighting continued for several years after this declaration.
The Casa de la Emancipacion was where Trujillo’s independence from colonial rule was officially declared on 29 December 1820, and it became the home of Peru’s first independent government after this. In 1823, it became the seat of the first Constituent Congress.
It was officially declared a historic monument in 1971, and was turned into a museum shortly afterwards.
Today the colonial-era house is owned and run by the Fundacion BBVA, an organisation designed to promote culture and education, particularly around Peru’s cultural heritage. It houses galleries and exhibition spaces filled with historic artefacts, important cultural documents and items of historic significance to Trujillo in particular.
The Casa de la Emancipacion also houses cultural events like art exhibitions and occasionally live music events – look up the calendar before you go as they’re often extremely enjoyable.
The Casa de la Emancipacion is in the historic centre of Trujillo, between Jirón Gamarra and Jirón Francisco Pizarro. Buses stop on the Avenida Espana which circles this area: it’s about a 10 minute walk from there to the museum. It’s easiest to access everything in the centro historico by foot, so if you’re coming by taxi, get them to drop you and walk the last bit.
]]>The Wari Empire, which ruled much of the Andes, had a presence in Peru from approximately 600 AD to 1100 AD and flourished in the area along the coast and reaching to the highlands. The Empire was known for its network of roads, and had a territory nearly as large as that of the later Inca Empire.
Only discovered in December 2008 (announced by lead archeologist Cesar Soriano), Cerro Pátapo was a vitally important find, creating a chronological connection between the Wari and the preceding Moche Empire, which existed from 100 AD to 600 AD. The ruins also present the first evidence of Wari influence (Huari culture) found in Northern Peru and show this was an important site.
The site is remarkably well preserved due to the dry desert climate.
The Wari city at Cerro Pátapo stretches for approximately 3 miles and is believed to have been the site of human sacrifices. Amongst the finds at Cerro Pátapo, archaeologists found the remains of a woman as well as ceramic pieces and clothing.
The Cerro Pátapo ruins are located 14 miles east from Chiclayo, the principal city of the Lambayeque region in northern Peru, 8 miles inland from the Pacific coast. Peru’s captial, Lima, is 478 miles to the south.
From Chiclayo, it’s best to travel by car – the ruins are a 45 minute drive via LA-111 and Route 6A.
]]>As the capital of the ancient Chimu civilisation, Chan Chan was developed in around 1300 AD and would have reached its peak in the 15th century, after which the Chimu were overtaken by the Incas and the city was abandoned. The Chimu were extremely sophisticated builders and engineers. There are 10 citadels at Chan Chan, marking the 10 Chima rulers. The site is in the desert, and aqueducts/canals had to be built in order to supply the city with water.
Still a vast site today, it is thought that Chan Chan was home to up to 100,000 people, and spanned over 20 square kilometres at its zenith. Over the years, erosion has meant the outer parts of the city are gone, but there’s still plenty to visit.
The site was also looted by the Spanish from the 16th century onwards. Chan Chan was a wealthy city, and had large amounts of gold, silver and ceramics stored there. What’s left of this haul is housed in nearby museums – the rest was taken away for colonial benefit. Looting also further destroyed some of the site: what remains is a shadow of the grandeur of the former city and yet is still an incredible sight.
Chan Chan is a labyrinth of dwellings, palaces, fortifications, streets, storehouses and temples, all organised into a well-planned city structure spanning approximately 20 square kilometres.
The buildings at Chan Chan were ornately decorated, adorned with elaborate friezes, some of which can still be seen today and which depict animals, mythical creatures and abstract shapes. Sadly, what cannot be seen now is any gold or silver which probably decorated many of these sites, as this has all been stolen.
Chan Chan was later the site of a much more gruesome episode in Peruvian history: up to 5000 rebels were buried at the site during an uprising in Trujlllo in 1932.
Whilst the site is a mere shadow of what it would have been in its heyday, it’s still undeniably impressive. The Palacio Nik-An is the only area (at the moment) which is partially restored and open to the public – visit the others at your own risk. Muggings have been known to take place.
Elaborate friezes decorate the central ceremonial courtyard and audience chamber, whilst the mausoleum still proves to be a site of somewhat gruesome fascination – the tomb next to this was filled with the bodies of young women, raising questions about the nature of ritual sacrifice within Chimu society.
The site is closed Mondays, and there aren’t any refreshments on site, so be sure to bring snacks. The site’s museum is about 500m away, and houses a variety of artefacts from digs and excavations there. The map showing the full extent of Chan Chan is also very useful and puts into perspective the sheer size of the city at its peak.
Buses and combis run regularly from Trujillo to Chan Chan – they’ll drop you at a turnoff about 10 minutes walk away from the site itself. Some prefer going on a guided tour from Trujillo for ease of access and to gain a more comprehensive understanding of the site as there’s relatively limited signage – and English is scarce.
]]>Chauchilla was a burial ground for the Nazca people, in use between the 2nd and 9th century AD. The conditions of the Peruvian desert, combined with Nazca burial practices, meant that despite the time elapsed, the bodies were in remarkably good condition, with many still having hair and skin attached. The Nazca painted the skin with resin, and used mud-brick lined tombs, which kept out damp and bacteria that would normally invade.
Over the centuries, the burial grounds were robbed and looted, and many of the bodies were spread haphazardly across the burial grounds or left in open graves. The incredibly well preserved Nazca corpses are still in the original cloth in which they were laid to rest. All of the corpses face east in accordance with the Nazca culture and they are all in the sitting position.
The tombs were formally rediscovered in the 1920s, and under the protection of the Peruvian government since 1997.
The mummified bodies, along with pottery and textile fragments, still litter the ground and open graves today. Some find this kind of ‘dark tourism’ unnerving, so it’s worth spending a couple of minutes thinking how you feel about it before going. Do also remember that these are human remains and should be treated with according respect.
Look out for the mummified heads: these were specifically mummified, although the precise circumstances of this mummification is unclear as DNA testing suggests the heads weren’t those of the enemy, but of people from the Nazca community.
The cemetery is in the desert: bring plenty of water, suncream, a hat and ideally cover up – the wind can be fierce, as is the sun, so protect your skin as best you can. There’s minimal signage, so if you want to learn about the site in any depth, a guide is recommended: you can either go as part of a tour or hire your own privately. Many guides have some incredible stories and facts about the site, so it’s well worth doing.
If the site feels familiar, you may well have seen a close replica used in the film Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull.
The cemetery is about 30km south east of Nazca: the last few kilometres are down a dirt road, so come prepared. Many people come as part of a tour for ease of access and to benefit from a guide, but it’s possible to drive yourself or get a taxi. Buses/public transport are not really an option in this case.
]]>Similar in design and architecture to the far better known Machu Picchu, Choquequirao is almost devoid of tourists due to its isolated position, which makes it far more atmospheric and worth the effort it takes to get there.
Built in the late 15th century by Incas, and expanded over the next century Choquequirao is believed to have served as an administrative hub for the region, as well as providing a local military centre. It’s believed to have been a kind of ‘check point’ or entrance to the Vilcabamba, and was a vital link between Cusco and the Amazon jungle.
The 16th century saw the Incan Empire consumed by civil war, which was then exploited by the Conquistadors when they arrived in the region in the early 1530s. Choquequirao was used as a refuge by the Inca following the destruction of Cusco. It was never discovered – or at least never written about – by the Spanish following their defeat of Incan forces in 1572.
18th century explorers ‘rediscovered’ the city, but only a few made the arduous journey to get there in the 19th century. The renowned explorer Hiram Bingham visited in the early 20th century, tempted by the fact that in Quechua, Choquequirao means ‘cradle of gold’, but discovered no treasure. He decided it was simply a frontier fortress rather than full of lost Inca treasure.
Choquequirao remains remote and hard to access, which is part of its charm. The Peruvian government has approved initial plans to add in a tramway which will make the site infinitely more accessible, and allow up to 3000 tourists a day.
The site lies in the Vilcabamba mountains, on a truncated hill top – it’s about 3000m above sea level, so expect to feel light-headed on your way up. It’s spread over 700m, and rises 65m within the site itself. The site has multiple terraces and plazas, and takes time to explore fully.
The grand ceremonial centre was the heart of the city, reserved for the elites – access was through a single doorway which was tightly controlled. As with other sites, it was centred around the solstices. Stone channels would have carried ceremonial water to other places across the site.
Most visitors choose to access Choquequirao via guided hike – having someone to explain the site to you is hugely useful as there’s no interpretation there. High in the cloud forest, it’s not a trip for the faint-hearted, but those who do make it will be richly rewarded.
Choquequirao is only accessible via a physically challenging 2 day hike each way. Starting points tend to be Huanipaca or San Pedro de Cachora, which offer 15km and 31km routes respectively. Both are about a 4 hour drive from Cusco. Once you reach Choquequirao, you can head on to Macchu Picchu, which takes about another week to reach.
The altitude, combined with steep terrain, mean you should take an honest look at your physical fitness before embarking. A variety of guided tours are offered, and you’ll find plenty of operators offering their services in Cusco – some do choose to make the trek alone but this isn’t advised.
]]>El Brujo has evidence of human habitation dating back to approximately 3000BC, but it’s believed the site really developed between 200 and 600AD – a time known as the Early Intermediate Period.
The best preserved of El Brujo’s trio of temples, thought to have been sites of ceremonial significance, is Huaca Cao Viejo (also known as Huaca Blanca) . The 27m high pyramid is adorned with dramatic, colourful friezes showing various scenes ranging from everyday activities such as fishing to depictions of violence and particularly of human sacrifice.
These friezes have led archaeologists to believe that El Brjuo was probably the site of the torture and execution of prisoners. This theory was further bolstered by the tomb of a woman known as the Señora de Cao, who was buried with a variety of precious objects. This discovery in 2005 was one of the biggest in Peruvian archaeology as it subverted traditional beliefs that the Moche – and other pre-Columbian societies – were male dominated.
Huaca El Brujo is the second most important structure found – also known as the ‘Cut Ruin’ because of the deep cut in its facade made by treasure hunters. Some think this Huaca was used as an administrative centre.
The last huaca is Huaca Prieta, which is the oldest settlement in the area: it’s been studied extensively by archaeologists and in all honesty it’s much more interesting to archaeologists than general visitors.
No one knows why the site was abandoned – it’s thought a combination of political instability and extreme climate events led to its abandonment.
The site is impressive, and the new museum – Museo de Cao – next to the site is an added bonus. It displays the mummified remains of the Señora de Cao along with many of the finds excavated alongside her. There’s also CGI replica imagery of what she might have looked like.
There are still a number of local residents – the site is believed to radiate positive energy and shamans come here to perform rituals. Some residents will give guided tours of the site in exchange for a few pesos.
Huaca Prieta offers great views over the coastal area and is worth visiting for this reason alone.
The site is on the west coast of Peru, about 60km north of Trujillo. It’s easiest to get here by guided tour: otherwise, you’ll need to catch a bus / colectivo to Magdalena de Cao, and find a mototaxi to take you to the site itself – make sure you arrange for them to wait for you or you’ll have a terrible trying to get back. Look for buses from Trujillo bound for Chocope.
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